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The balance tube hose and fittings on the Rotax are a METRIC size approximately 7/16 inch. You will not find fittings in the hardware store this size (unless you live in Europe like Joeri ). A 3/8 hose barb does not fit the Rotax crossover hose.
I used a 1/2' hose barb X 1/4' pipe thread and machined off as much of the wall thickness as I could to get it down to almost 7/16'. With a little lube this will go into the Rotax tubing as seen in the picture. You can make the other connection with a piece of 3/8' hose. It will stretch enough to go over the elbow fitting on the manifold. The Carbmate is designed for motorcycles so will need longer tubing on the carbmate to get is safely away for the moving propeller. You can buy this in any hardware store to fit your homemade adapter. Carbmate supposedly has an adapter kit for the Rotax.
I ordered it from a big Rotax house and what they sent (for $55) was just US size fittings that you can can buy in the hardware store for a few bucks. It did not fit properly.
Rotax Engines Prices
The objective of the vacuum measuring carb synchronizer is to see that the vacuum signals from both carbs are the same. It is the difference between the signals and not the actual signals we are interested in however. The Rotax two stroke engine shows a signal of about 6' of mercury at idle measured against the atmosphere at its test signal port and a difference of about 1/16th to 1/20th of an inch of mercury can be read easily by eye. If lighter liquids are used like oil this signal would read as about 97 inches of oil requiring a very tall manometer gauge. With a senstivity of some 16 times greater than a mercury manometer, an oil manometer only needs to look at the difference.
By hooking each side of the manometer to each of the carbs we have a very sensitive tool for synchronization. A 1/20th of an inch of mercury difference would show up as about 13/16ths of an inch of oil on the oil manometer allowing for even finer adjustment than possible with mercury. Attached is a photo of an oil manometer I made up with some cheap materials from the local Ace hardware store.
I filled mine with air compressor oil since I did not have any two stroke oil around, but two stroke oil would be a better safety measure in the event of oil getting into a carb. Here is the bill of materials: 12 ft of 1/8' ID clear PVC tubing $0.84 1 wooden yardstick $0.59 2 wire ties $0.12 For a total cost of $1.55 plus tax. The tubing was taped to the yardstick with transparent packing tape. The wire ties were put thru the hole in the yardstick to secure the tubing on each side at the top. If desired a machinists or carpenters square and a pencil can be used to extend the 1/8' markings to both sides of the stick or the level of the oil on one side can simply be noted before testing begins since it must return to this point to be in balance. Fill with oil to about the 26 or 27 inch mark (36 at the bottom).
You may have to leave the unit sit for a day or so to get all the bubbles out. If you are careful not to introduce air when filling this is less of a problem. When in use with the engine running both lines must be connected, one to each carb. The oil will be sucked up and out of the manometer if only a single carb is connected and the other end is left open to the atmosphere. This device is so simple and cheap to make, I thought it best to just tell everyone how to do it rather than try to make and sell them.
Rotax Carb Sync Tool
Bing's claim that their $34.95 mercury device is the most accurate carb balancer regardless of price seems to ring hollow doesn't it? I will try this unit as soon as I get a chance. If any of you beat me to it, let me know how it works for you. Marty Prairie Skyhook Marty Ignazito 13961E Co. 620N Charleston, Illinois 217-348-1525 fax 209-796-4433 e-mail: Website.
The objective of the vacuum measuring carb synchronizer is to see that the vacuum signals from both carbs are the same. It is the difference between the signals and not the actual signals we are interested in however. The Rotax two stroke engine shows a signal of about 6' of mercury at idle measured against the atmosphere at its test signal port and a difference of about 1/16th to 1/20th of an inch of mercury can be read easily by eye. If lighter liquids are used like oil this signal would read as about 97 inches of oil requiring a very tall manometer gauge.
With a senstivity of some 16 times greater than a mercury manometer, an oil manometer only needs to look at the difference. By hooking each side of the manometer to each of the carbs we have a very sensitive tool for synchronization.
A 1/20th of an inch of mercury difference would show up as about 13/16ths of an inch of oil on the oil manometer allowing for even finer adjustment than possible with mercury. Attached is a photo of an oil manometer I made up with some cheap materials from the local Ace hardware store.
I filled mine with air compressor oil since I did not have any two stroke oil around, but two stroke oil would be a better safety measure in the event of oil getting into a carb. Here is the bill of materials: 12 ft of 1/8' ID clear PVC tubing $0.84 1 wooden yardstick $0.59 2 wire ties $0.12 For a total cost of $1.55 plus tax. The tubing was taped to the yardstick with transparent packing tape.
The wire ties were put thru the hole in the yardstick to secure the tubing on each side at the top. If desired a machinists or carpenters square and a pencil can be used to extend the 1/8' markings to both sides of the stick or the level of the oil on one side can simply be noted before testing begins since it must return to this point to be in balance. Fill with oil to about the 26 or 27 inch mark (36 at the bottom).
You may have to leave the unit sit for a day or so to get all the bubbles out. If you are careful not to introduce air when filling this is less of a problem. When in use with the engine running both lines must be connected, one to each carb. The oil will be sucked up and out of the manometer if only a single carb is connected and the other end is left open to the atmosphere. This device is so simple and cheap to make, I thought it best to just tell everyone how to do it rather than try to make and sell them. Bing's claim that their $34.95 mercury device is the most accurate carb balancer regardless of price seems to ring hollow doesn't it?
I will try this unit as soon as I get a chance. If any of you beat me to it, let me know how it works for you. Marty Prairie Skyhook Marty Ignazito 13961E Co. 620N Charleston, Illinois 217-348-1525 fax 209-796-4433 e-mail: Website.
Hi Jeremy, You went downtown on your setup. It will work great. The gauges to tell you which carb and how much and the Syncromate to fine tune the last.5 or less vacuum. I was thinking a tad smaller. Just use a 2' dial vacuum gauge (like the ones below) and splice it right in line with the Carbmate or Syncromate tubes about 2'-3' from the out let side of the instrument. You don't need the board or anything else, just one small gauge spliced in each Carbmate or Syncromate line.
Let me know when you take it for a test run. I think you will like it. It definitely is carb sync on steroids and the best of two instruments and the best way to get it down to a nat's rump. A nat's rump just doesn't sound the same. What a cool idea, I have to make one of these. Speaking of Roger he was right on regarding balancing @ 3600 rpm ( not that I doubted him).
I recently rebalanced and mine were on @ 2000 but way out @ above 3000. It took hours ( my first time) but rebalanced @ 3600. Smooth as a babys behind @ 3600-3800 and just a smidge off @ 2000. What did surprise me was when I re-connected the equalization tube the engine was noticably smoother at 2250. Have no idea why but you could feel it while taxing.
Hi Guys, When you balance your carbs they will usually always be a tad smoother when you reconnect the balance/crossover tube. I would never let anyone balance my carbs at less than 3500 rpm. I have seen a couple of shops balance at 2500 and the carbs will always be off at 3500-4000 rpm. You fly closer to the 3500-4000 rpm. 2500 is for idle. Tell a shop if your capable of balancing at 2500 then you can do it at 3500-4000. Once you get used to doing carb balancing then any rpm is just as easy to do.
I will state for the record that some planes seem to be a little easier than others. Some dial right in and some take a little more time. Hi Guys, When you balance your carbs they will usually always be a tad smoother when you reconnect the balance/crossover tube.
I would never let anyone balance my carbs at less than 3500 rpm. I have seen a couple of shops balance at 2500 and the carbs will always be off at 3500-4000 rpm. You fly closer to the 3500-4000 rpm. 2500 is for idle. Tell a shop if your capable of balancing at 2500 then you can do it at 3500-4000. Once you get used to doing carb balancing then any rpm is just as easy to do. I will state for the record that some planes seem to be a little easier than others.
Some dial right in and some take a little more time. Roger, 1st time with a Synchromate. I did not reset the idle mixture or idle stopo or throttle cable. Just hooked it up and here's what I saw at start up 78 degrees thru runup at 148 degrees. Also, I hooked up to #2 and 4 as REF.does it matter which side I hook up: LEFT CENTER RIGHT -this was also max static RPM is that good? Seems like the vacuum is more to the left at 1900 to 2200, the closer to center from 2300 thru 4920 WOT Any suggestions for adjustments? Perhaps do the mechanical sync first???
Thanks Doug in IL. Hi Doug, Pick an rpm between 3500-4000 and set the carbs so they are equal. Then go back to idle and use the idle stop screw and set the idle. Either side you hook up is fine. If the carbs have been synced before then the pneumatic is okay.
If they have never been synced or you have worked on the carbs then add the mechanical balance too. The mechanical balance only gets you in the ballpark and is never a substitute for a pneumatic sync. You really don't care about staid rpm as it is slightly different between props. It only gets you in the ballpark. You need to fly it to get a good WOT rpm set.
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